Altyn-Arashan: One of Kyrgyzstan’s Most Spectacular Mountain Valleys
There are some travel experiences that make you feel like you’re reliving your youth. And then there are the ones that make you realise you’re definitely not 25 anymore! Altyn-Arashan in the remote northeastern Kyrgyzstan is one of the country’s top alpine experiences, but getting there may not be to everyone’s liking.
Read on if you have travelled around the sun at least 60 times and are wondering whether Altyn-Arashan is for you…
Getting to Altyn-Arashan: This Is Where the Adventure Begins
We knew Altyn Arashan was remote when our guide in Kyrgyzstan told us there was no way he would ever take his 4X4 up there. Instead, he had booked for us to make the trip in a Soviet post-war people mover – unless, he asked in all seriousness, we wanted to go there on foot or on horseback?
Ohhhhhh, shall we horse-ride up there? For a moment, horseback riding was intriguing. ‘Don’t be ridiculous, Wren. Let’s do it in more comfort than that,’ we decided.
For a few glorious minutes, we were back in the days when we’d happily throw ourselves into an adventure, worry about the details later and bounce along a mountain track simply because we wanted to see what was around the next corner.
The only difference?
These days, I’m rather more particular about how I’m getting there. And this particular adventure had a problem I hadn’t anticipated…
Read on, if you have been around the sun at least 60 times and are wondering whether Altyn-Arashan is for you…
The 4WD Journey: Beautiful Scenery, Bumpy Roads and Petrol Fumes!
Well, here was our chance to test Soviet multi-terrain vehicle technology from the proud UAZ (catchily, Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant) company, which has been making off-road vehicles for the Russian military and other rough-terrain travellers since 1941. Looking at our vehicle, we assumed it must have rolled off the production line at the factory’s inauguration, but were amazed to learn it was built in 1989.
For the real automotive nerds among you, our trusty conveyance was a UAZ-2206, or, as affectionately known in Russia, the Bukhanka, which translates to “Loaf of Bread” – an apt description of its aerodynamics and leading-edge design.
When the Adventure Became Too Much for Me
Pasha, the driver, picked us up from our hotel and informed us that the settlement of Altyn-Arashan was about 25 kilometres away. Easy, we thought, until he told us that the trip would take at least 2 hours. The first 11 kilometres were on roads that, by Kyrgyz standards, were in good condition. Yes, most of them were gravel, with road works signs everywhere, but that is the norm for the country’s road network, which is being given the mother of all upgrades, courtesy mainly of Chinese construction companies.
Our only challenge at this stage of the trip was the overwhelming petrol fumes in the cabin, which are apparently normal but led one of our number, ie Moi, to try every seat in the van. This included, for several kilometres, a wild game of musical chairs and was finalised with me swapping into the front seat with the guide and hanging my head so far out of the window in search of fresh air that I was at risk of garotting myself on every passing Tian Shan Spruce.
It was no good, and I sadly decided to jump ship and return to the hotel. Not without the added excitement of the local police stopping to check that all was in order as we waited on the side of the road for my Yandex car to arrive and transport me back into my comfort zone, our lovely hotel!
The rest sallied forth, windows fully open despite the thick smog of construction dust that soon coated all in a ghostly cloak.
Mr Wren continues the story…
We then took a turning signposted ‘Altyn Arashan’ 14 kilometres, and that was when the fun started. There is a barrier at the park entrance where an entry fee must be paid. It’s 250 KGS, which is about 2USD for foreign citizens, and 50 KGS, or 57c USD, for the car. This point is where you’ll find your 4-legged friend for the trip. It’s also where the hikers set out for a 4-5-hour hike each way.
Everyone uses pretty much the same track, so vigilance is required. The cars do not stop for anyone – and due to traffic, the trip will be slow. There are stopping-off points by the river, though, that get you off the track.
What can you say about those 14 Kilometres? I can safely say it was the roughest, most potholed, rocky track I have been on in my life. All credit to the trusty old UAZ; it went over stuff that even the most ardent off-roader would have laughed at, shook their head and returned to the pub. The trip takes about 1.25-1.5 hours by car, and you will finish with fatigued arms and a stiff back from holding on so tight and bouncing around like a shirt in a tumble dryer.
What Altyn-Arashan Looks Like: Mountains, Meadows and Glacial Rivers
The route is beautiful, following a deep gorge with a fast-moving, white-water river. Do stop on the way up and make the most of the panoramic views. It is busy – you will see hundreds of walkers and riders making the same pilgrimage. Along with many rugged 4WD vehicles transporting the old, sensible and lazy up. When you finally arrive at the settlement, it is huge. You’ll find a massive array of yurts, tents, food trucks, hostels, and hot springs… set in a wide green valley. It’s an amazing place – Khao San Road escaped to the country, or Vang Vieng without the tubing.
Animals wander around; people sit around, chat, drink coffee, eat, take a dip in the hot springs, and generally chill and relax. The place is a bit how I imagine Everest Base Camp to be. It’s a remote, rustic, and basic launch pad where people are either nervously preparing for the challenge ahead. Or recovering with a sense of relief and achievement.
This is because the settlement is the starting point for further adventures in the park… And this is hard yakka. Ongoing trips can be the 10-hour round trip to Ala Kul lake – a tough hike with a steep, rocky, scree-laden ascent to the lake at the end – or multi-day hikes through the mountains. These trips can either be done on foot or on horseback. All reports say this is for experienced, well-equipped hikers, so prepare well. Note also that the weather up there can change very quickly, so cater for all conditions.
The Altyn-Arashan Hot Springs: Your Reward at the End of the Road
After a few hours on the plateau, it was time to descend. We stopped off at the hot springs just outside the village. These consisted of a couple of small stone capsules beside the river. Each only accommodates two people, and there was a bit of a queue, so we didnt try them out. If you’ve got buckets of time, I would recommend trying them, or if you are staying overnight, try the hot springs in the camps.
Altyn-Arashan Accommodation: What Should Comfort Travellers Expect?
The reason we decided to visit as a day trip was that the accommodation on offer is simple yurts and Guest Houses, with basic facilities. The attraction is the spectacular scenery and the experience of getting into the mountains, not the level of creature comforts. Enough said, we were happy to be back in our nice hotel in Karakol.
Altyn-Arashan for Over 60s: Is It Really for Us?
The typical age range of the visitors was between 20 and 40, so I definitely felt a bit of an outlier, but you know what? Although we weren’t setting out on an adventure into the interior, we definitely felt we were rediscovering a bit of our youth by mixing it with the young crowd, and there was a sense of achievement in that.
How did we cope with the altitude?
At around 2,500 metres above sea level, Altyn-Arashan is high enough that altitude sickness is worth mentioning. In our case, we’d stayed in Karakol at 1700 metres above sea level for a few days beforehand. Although I reached the valley by 4WD, I gained altitude relatively quickly rather than hiking up gradually. I didn’t experience altitude sickness, but everyone is different.
What I Would Do Differently Next Time
It’s hard to know whether the petrol fumes from every vehicle would be the same, since the petrol tank is in the centre of the van. In addition, our guide tells us these vans are among the few vehicles that can transport many items, including petrol, inside. Obviously not everyone will be so sensitive to fumes; Mr Wren managed it and survived!
What to Pack for an Altyn-Arashan Adventure
If you’re heading to Altyn-Arashan, pack for adventure rather than fashion! The weather in the mountains can change quickly, so layers are your friend. I’d take comfortable walking shoes or sturdy trainers, warm layers, a waterproof jacket, hat and sunscreen, even if the day starts warm. Don’t forget water and snacks, as you’re heading into a remote mountain valley with limited facilities.
If you’re planning to use the hot springs, pack swimwear, a quick-dry towel and a change of clothes. And if you’re travelling by 4WD, I’d add one slightly less glamorous but very important item to the list: a scarf or mask to cover your nose and mouth if the vehicle gets dusty or, heaven forbid, full of petrol fumes!
Top Tips for Altyn-Arashan
Do not attempt to drive your own 4×4; these roads are next-level bumpy. Go with an experienced guide and someone who knows how to drive this route.
If you are at all prone to motion sickness, bring any sickness medication and travel on an empty stomach
There is no internet, so download maps before you leave Karakol; a power bank may be useful.
Altyn-Arashan: Adventure Without Giving Up Your Comfort
It’s a tough call for me whether I would have preferred the dusty 15 km uphill walk which uses the same route as the Soviet trucks. Certainly for anyone with back or neck issues, the extremely bumpy route will be hard. Sit toward the middle of the vehicle; I took my flight neck pillow! If you do decide to stay over, book ahead so you have the best choice of accommodation; you can find private rooms in guest houses,
Our Verdict: Would we Recommend Altyn-Arashan?
The bone-rattling descent takes as long as the ascent and is just as challenging for the bread van driver; however, Pasha accomplished it with aplomb. After all, he has done this trip 3-4 times a week for the last 7 years. He – maybe jokingly – offered to let me have a go. It didnt take much thinking to say no with visions of following a poor guy in a 4X4 who went over the edge of a cliff a fortnight ago.
Definitely a worthwhile trip for anyone with a sense of adventure, a decent level of fitness and a desire to relive their youth! I was genuinely sad to miss out on what looked like an incredible experience, but as the days rolled on and Kyrgyzstan continued to deliver spectacular views, I was quietly pleased that I’d listened to my body and prioritised my health. Sometimes, knowing when to call it a day is part of the adventure too!
After all, there’s plenty more adventure out there — and this Little Wren intends to keep exploring!
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