After days of colourful chaos and royal splendour, it was time to leave Jaipur behind and make my way north to Mussoorie — the “Queen of the Hills.” What followed was a long, unforgettable, and very real slice of Indian travel life.
Early Morning Departure from Jaipur
We stumble off the train at 4.45 am in Jaipur. This is a bit more like the real India: bodies everywhere sleeping on newspapers, and it stinks! Not surprisingly, as the toilet waste drops straight onto the tracks and the heat of the day is starting to kick in.
While my friends head off to “freshen up” and ride elephants to Amber Fort, I make my way to the Jaipur Double Decker Express, departing for Delhi at 6 a.m. It’s the start of a long day of travel — but as they say, it’s all part of the adventure.
Watching India Wake Up from the Train
From my window, Rajasthan slowly stirs to life.
Out of the window, I can see haystacks like wigwams, women carrying a myriad of things on their heads, often followed by the men, a camel in a cart, rubbish everywhere…..
A sign in the carriage says the average speed of the super express train is 80km per hour, hardly super fast… We eventually arrive in Delhi at 11.15 am, 45 minutes late. Everywhere there’s colour, movement, and a touch of chaos.
A sign inside the carriage proudly announces that this “Super Express” averages 80 km/h — not exactly super-fast by any measure! We eventually roll into Delhi at 11:15 a.m., a modest 45 minutes late.
The Challenge of Delhi’s Chaos
I am struggling to get my two suitcases and extra bags down the stairs of the train, when up pops Jose, ready to meet me, as if by magic. He is a welcome sight as we have quite a distance to go before we meet the taxi driver. There is no path or road, so it is quite impossible to pull the suitcases along.
Delhi hits like a wall: blaring horns, exhaust fumes. The car vibrates violently, and the driver brakes late. It is at this point that I realise the luxury of our previous travel. The air con blows pure chemicals at me – although maybe it is just Delhi’s fresh air….I crawl from the taxi into the relative calm oasis of Delhi’s Terminal Three – and find a quiet place to take my anti-sickness pills.
I could get addicted to these, they work a treat, and within 5 mins I’m ok to proceed. I love my gastro kit….
Delhi Airport Detour: Marks & Spencer Mission
Feeling revived, I breeze through Delhi Airport’s security routine. At immigration, I know the routine: every piece of hand luggage needs a tag which is stamped, then it’s into the cubicle with a curtain for a private frisk, and finally the boarding card is double-stamped. Routine mastered.
Then, I spot Marks & Spencer. My son has texted: “Mum, can you get me a tie for the school dance?” I find a sleek black-and-grey tie, but at 695 rupees? No, thank you. He’s not looking for a wife — I leave it on the counter.
Jet Airways to Dehradun
My Jet Airways flight to Dehradun is packed with noisy schoolchildren. I’m squashed in a middle seat (so much for window preferences!), next to a man chanting softly and flicking his wrists. Just as I start plotting a polite escape, a boy in the emergency row is asked to move — and I heroically offer to swap seats. Problem solved!
The short flight includes a sandwich and water — bliss after a day sustained on plain biscuits and a banana. As we descend into Dehradun, I spot armed security guards along the runway and a gleaming new terminal waiting in the distance.
Meeting Kindness on the Road to Dehradun
There’s no one to meet me at the airport, and within minutes the place empties. I approach an elegant woman speaking English on her phone to ask her advice on whether the local taxis are safe. She kindly offers me a lift in her own taxi.
For an hour, we chat as we drive through Dehradun. She tells me she’s an English teacher working with street children — and proudly shares that one of her students just made it to college in Delhi. Her story inspires me to think about how my family might support one of these children in future.
The Final Climb: Up to Mussoorie
From Dehradun, the two-hour journey up to Mussoorie is breathtaking. As the road winds through the foothills of the Himalayas, I wonder how easy it would be to live here and, at the same time, how impossibly difficult to leave; it is extraordinarily beautiful.
We head up into the town of Mussoorie, yep, I reckon this could grow on you. This mountain town has that effect.
When I finally reach the Fortune Grace Hotel, I’m met with a less-than-graceful room. I might be exhausted from my travel, but I’m never too tired for a hissy fit and a room change!
Mission Accomplished
In a dusty gentlemen’s outfitter, I find the biggest, widest ties imaginable, all wrapped in cream cardboard covers coated with grime. “395 rupees,” the shopkeeper says. Perfect — I’ll take one “without dust,” please!
After 26 hours of travel, I arrive safely in Mussoorie — tired, grateful, and victorious with a new tie for my son secured. Mission accomplished.
Final Details
Little Wandering Wren
📍 Route: Jaipur → Delhi → Dehradun → Mussoorie
🕒 Travel time: 26 hours.
☕ Mood: Tired but thrilled to be in the Himalayas
If you have enjoyed this post, you might like to read further Incredible India adventures:
Day Two: The Essence of Rajasthan
1 comment
Now mission accomplished I'm hoping this post won't self distruct in 30 seconds after reading…because there's so much to take in I want to read it again.
Incredible journey but hey well worth it for that tie! ;D