Day Seven – Beyond Mussoorie

With my son off at school, I find myself gloriously unsupervised for the day (dangerous, I know). So, I do what any sensible wandering woman would do — I ask the lovely folks at reception at Rokeby Manor what I can do to “see the countryside and experience local life.”

A few minutes later, I’m in a taxi heading off to meet Lori — a Canadian woman who married the Village Elder (yes, really) and co-founded a local English-speaking primary school. She lives in Sanji, affectionately known as the corn village. Intriguing, right?

A Quick Stop at Kempty Falls

En route, I get to soak up some stunning scenery — rolling hills, distant snow-capped Himalayas, and the kind of misty mountain charm that makes you forget about emails entirely.

About an hour (and 15 km) later, we reach Kempty Falls, one of Mussoorie’s “must-see” spots. The Waterfalls dramatic cascade tumbling 40 feet from an altitude of 4,500 feet, splitting into five glittering streams.

It’s also a bit of a party — think thousands of visitors, swimming costumes, selfie sticks, and snacks galore. It’s easy to see why people love it. The falls were discovered by British officers in 1835, who rather liked to “camp for tea” here (hence “Kempty”).

But truth be told? Pretty as it is, it was what came after that truly stole my heart.

Welcome to the Corn Village

My taxi eventually stops in front of some rather grand gates. A quick phone call later, Lori appears — all warmth, purpose, and quiet charisma. She and her husband started the Garhwal English Medium School five years ago. Today, it’s bursting with 230 bright-eyed students, all proudly wearing their uniforms (supplied by the school, right down to their socks and undies!).

They get a nutritious lunch cooked on-site by two local women, and a visiting doctor pops by twice a month. Fruit and vitamins are on the wish list — but funding, as always, is tight.

As we wander through the classrooms, each one leaps to its feet, singing a cheerful “Welcome, Sister!” Honestly, I nearly cried. (They were singing to Lori, of course… but I like to think I got an honorary verse.)

School’s Out – and the Fun Begins

Once lessons are done, I watch the younger children queue up for the school bus — a heroic little vehicle that drives all afternoon to get everyone home safely. They dream of getting a second one someday. (If anyone’s got a spare bus lying around, do call Lori!)

Naturally, my iPad camera becomes the day’s main attraction. One giggling girl quickly becomes a superstar, and before I know it, I’m surrounded by a sea of hopeful faces, all demanding their close-up. Move over, Bollywood.

A Walk Through the Fields

With Lori free for the afternoon, we head down the hill — the last 500 metres only accessible on foot, through rice terraces and cornfields (sensible shoes required). The village itself is peaceful, with most of the men away working in nearby towns. The women greet us warmly, though one shy little girl, left with her grandmother so she can attend school, isn’t quite ready to smile yet. My heart breaks just a little.

The Golden Lady of Sanji

Back at Lori’s home, she proudly shows me her latest projects with the village women — handmade soaps and Himalayan dolls, both designed to support the school. Both the soap and the dolls employ the local women to the benefit of both the women and the school. I happily buy some cucumber & aloe vera goats milk soap but you are left with the feeling “what else can I do to help?”

Thank you, Lori, for your generosity, vision, and heart. No wonder the villagers call you the Golden Lady of Sanji.

🌾 Garhwal English Medium School
📍 Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, India
🏡 Stay: Rokeby Manor

If You Go…

Getting There:
Mussoorie is about 1.5 hours from Dehradun Airport. From Mussoorie, Kempty Falls is roughly 15 km away, and Sanji village is a short drive further. Your hotel can easily arrange a taxi — just ask for a village visit near Mussoorie.

Where to Stay:
Stay at Rokeby Manor, a charming colonial-era boutique hotel with mountain views and plenty of character. It’s one of the best places to stay in Mussoorie for comfort and charm.

What to Bring:
Comfy shoes, a camera, and maybe a small donation or interest in buying local soap or dolls. Everything helps the school.

When to Visit:
March to June or September to November are ideal — clear skies, green hills, and golden cornfields.

Tip:
Visit the Garhwal English Medium School website to learn more or support Lori’s amazing work. They love visitors who come with open hearts (and perhaps space in their suitcase for handmade treasures!).

Sometimes travel magic isn’t found in waterfalls or viewpoints — it’s found in people like Lori, and in small villages where dreams quietly grow amongst the corn.